About
2 years ago, I splurged on a new Renaissance costume. It was a big
step up in class from "lower" to "upper middle", so I immediately
started looking around for accessories. I quickly discovered that I
wasn't crazy about most options online, but heck, I know how to sew and
have made a lot of costumes, I could make something right? I found some
great patterns online, but ended up creating my own pattern to get the
size and shape I was looking for.
A fabric coif (also
called a caul) suitable for middle and upper class Renaissance costumes
is not hard to make, but doing it well does take some time and a few
tricks. The effort is well worth it. Another advantage to using a
linen hair covering, besides looking great with just about any costume,
is it covers a modern hairstyle very well, and looks great alone or with
another hat on top, like a tall hat or riding hat. Ribbon ties make
the fit adjustable and secure.
To make the pattern:
Draw
a 16"" circumference circle on your paper. You can use a compass, or
the old standby of a string tied around a pin on one end and a pencil on
the other. Stick the pin in the center and draw a circle with the
pencil.
Next, use your ruler to create a grid on your pattern that
will be sewn in metallic thread. I prefer a 1" square, but a wider
pattern = less sewing!
Cutting the fabric:
Using the transfer paper and transfer wheel, mark the fabric with the pattern and sewing gridlines.
I like using a ruler or straight edge to help keep my lines straight when I mark them.
Cut out the circle, using scissors or rotary cutters.
Sewing:
Use
the fabric scraps to check the tension and stitch length for the
metallic thread. The thread is stretchy and gets tangled easily. I
prefer a medium stitch and slightly loose tension. If the tension is
too tight, you make get puckering of the fabric, too loose and the
stitches will not meet correctly in the fabric.
Using
your marks as a guide, sew over the grid lines with the metallic
thread. If you prefer hand sewing, a back stitch would work well for
this.
Once the grid lines are complete, iron you fabric.
This
is a good time to sew on your pearl beads. You can sew them at each
intersection, alternating intersections, in the squares between,
whatever you like. You can use semi-precious stone beads also, though
pearls were very commonly used in the 1500's for hats, clothing and
jewelry. Do not sew beads on the outer inch of the fabric, or they will
get in the way of gathering and finishing the coif. Alternatively, you
can sew the beads on after you have completed the caul (as shown
below), but I find it easier to sew them on when the fabric is flat.
Marking
the top & bottom with pins, run 2 rows of basting stictches around
the outside edge of the circle at 1/4" and 1/2".
Pull the
basting stitch thread ends to gather the fabric evenly around the
circle. Gather it tightly enough to fit into your bias tape with the
ends of the bais tape folded neatly under.
Fold the bais tape
over the gathered circle edges and pin. Adjust your gathers if needed.
Using your sewing maching and matching thread, sew the bais tape to the
linen.
This is a good time to try the hat on and make
sure it fits. A little loose is ok, but too tight should be corrected
before you finish trimming the caul.
Ribbon Ties:
Match
the center of your ribbon to the center on the caul, then pin the place
on top of the bias tape, around the outside of the caul. plan to leave
4" gap unsewn at the bottom of the caul, so you can tighten the hat by
tying the ribbons. Sew the ribbon in place, using matching threads.
Use a dab of liquid stitch or other clear drying fabric glue on the ends
of the ribbons to keep them from fraying.
Trim:
Starting
from center, pin your trim around the outside edge of the caul. There
should be approximately a 4 inch gap at the bottom of the caul to allow
for the ties. Fold ends of trim under, or seal with clear fabric glue.
You can sew the trim on by hand, or you can sew by machine. Use a
thread to match the trim on top, and keep the bobbin thread with the
color that matches your linen for a more polished look.
Optional Hair Pins:
To
make your caul even more secure on your head, run a loose basting
stitch around the inside of the bias tape. When putting on the caul,
put the hairpin through a thread loop, pushing forward toward your
hairline. Scoop the pin downward, gathering up some hair, then slide in
back under the caul, toward the back of your head. 5-10 pins around
the outside edge of the caul will keep it firmly in place.
The
final result looks great and is even comfortable to wear. I like to
wear a small flat hat or riding bonnet over my coif, but I know some of
my clients like to wear them alone or with a flower wreath. It also
keeps your hair up off your neck on a hot day at Faire, no matter how
much shopping you do.
To see more coifs, visit www.foliejolie.com